Men's suits have never gone out of style. Just like any other form of fashion, they have trickled down, been influenced by world politics and the economy. They have changed shape, length, width, colour, material, and texture.
These changes and fluctuation come and go in waves, often returning to a style that was popular a few decades earlier. Each subsequent age wants to have their own look. “There's always been a shift between generations,” says Mayan Rajendran, a first-year graduate student at The School of Fashion at Ryerson specializing in street fashion. “Silhouettes are constantly shifting. With each category of age there's always a contrast. You always want to be doing what your dad wasn't.”
Bespoke- a style of extremely specific custom tailoring- was the only thing available 100 years ago. A suit included a jacket, vest, and two pairs of pants. A bespoke suit was created for an individual, for one single person and it would never fit another person the way that it is made to fit the original wearer. But mass-produced clothing became popular during the industrial revolution, and bespoke tailoring became much too expensive for most people.
But now, bespoke tailoring is popular among young New York and London businessmen, and it's slowly effecting Toronto's high-end fashion. Today, lot of young professional lawyers, judges, and news anchors in Toronto have been getting their suits custom made. Bespoke, along with a sort of British Dandyism style (skinny suits, coloured socks, and tapered pants) is becoming much more popular among young Torontonian businessmen.
Terry Beauchamp is the current owner of Walter Beauchamp Tailors, the oldest tailoring company in Toronto. The company started out as a tailor for military suits. Now they do formal wear and the occasional RCMP or police uniform. Most customers are financial workers, TV personalities, musicians, and government officials, but practically all of the suits they sell are bespoke.
Terry Beauchamp, who has owned the store since 1985, has noticed younger men coming in. “It's sort of a nostalgia renaissance,” he says. Bespoke tailoring requires many different measurements, not just the inseam, waist size and shoulder size. “They love shopping here. They're not used to getting looked after,” Beauchamp says of younger men. Mostly, men in their 20s and 30s want to get a suit resized or updated, but occasionally a young man will come in to get a brand new bespoke suit.
One of Beauchamp's recent customers Mike Koncan, 24, is a fourth year RTA student at Ryerson. He has been on RUtv as well as well as Rogers TV in Mississauga. Koncan's parents bought him a custom suit at Beauchamp for his birthday. “I love it. It feels like day and night compared to other jackets,” he says. “I would much rather wear the custom suit and jacket than any of my others.”
But Koncan says he doesn't know a whole lot of people his age ho would wear a custom made suit, most likely because they don't require one for their profession or they simply can't afford it.
Though Glenn Vernie does require suits for his job. He is the network administrator for MicroAge, a Toronto technology company. He is 41 (he said he wouldn't call himself young, but compared to a lot of men who wear or wore tailored suits, he is quite young) and started going to Beauchamp Tailoring about three months ago.
“The issue was I couldn't really find anything that fit properly,” Vernie says. He used to shop at stores like Hugo Boss and Harry Rosen. “I was paying $2,500 for a suit and it still wasn't fitting properly. It was frustrating.”
Vernie had a double-breasted suit made for him at Beauchamp. It was custom tailored to fit him exactly. He also brought in a number of suits that didn't fit him and he had Alfonso Prezioso, the head tailor at Beauchamp, re-do them. “He's a magician,” Vernie says of Prezioso. “He basically tore them apart and remade them. I was just going to throw them out.”
Prezioso was trained in Italy and has been with Walter Beauchamp Tailors for over 40 years. Finding a tailor who has skills as good as his is rare in recent years. Today, suits are usually mass-produced and they don't have the same care and proper fittings put into them. Yet, thousands of people still buy mass-produced suits don't actually fit their body type.
Bespoke suits are completely unlike mass-produced cloths. They are measured and tailored numerous times so they fit the wearer exactly. “We don't think the way the modern world does. We make things too good and they last,” says Beauchamp. “But people appreciate that.” Bespoke suits have an “artisanal quality,” Rajendran says. A suit can be extraordinarily comfortable, but only if it is made to fit the wearer perfectly.
The whole effect is like a morale booster. “You feel like you look better, so you just feel better about yourself in general,” Koncan says. “If your first suit is one of those, it's hard harder to go back,” he adds.
“The dilemma is to convince people that we're not just stodgy old farts,” Beauchamp jokes. He knows that people who value quality and art in fashion will always value custom tailoring. “Knowledgeable fashion people always respect the bespoke tailoring.”
Photo Credit: All photos are courtesy of Beauchamp Tailors.
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